Background
Disassembling the ANAN-100D radio, although a bit daunting/unfamiliar at first, ends up being a fairly easy endeavor once you understand the construction and a few tricks. It actually ends up being easier than most conventional radios due to simple mechanical construction.
The radio is built on 3 levels or plates, with the middle level merely being a sliding metal shield plate. On the bottom is the Angelia board, fan and power board attached to the sliding base plate. At the top is the PA/filter board which is fixed in place with the final transistors using the case top as a heatskink. Both the middle and bottom plates slide back and forth in guide rails/channels in the sides of the case.
The only two mechanical techniques you might not yet be familiar with are:
1. the back cover is held in place by not only screws, but also by 8 BNC connector nuts which are easily removed with a 14mm wrench. I highly recommend you buy a ratcheting box wrench for the nuts - the type with a hinged wrench head is especially recommended.
2. SMA connectors are easily removed by unscrewing the middle nut with an 8mm open end wrench, but exercise caution when engaging/disengaging so you don't bend the center conductor - gently move the connector in a straight line until clear.
You also need to bear in mind what will initially be preventing the middle and bottom plates from sliding freely. There are 6 cables passing through the rear of the middle plate on the way between the back plate, bottom plate and top plate. Five of these (3 SMA coax cables, two-conductor speaker cable, and Angelia power cable) pass through a square cutout on one side plus an SMA cable passing through a round hole on the opposite side. There is also a 10-pin ribbon cable in the front, passing between top and bottom plates, that is also tie wrapped to the middle plate. Finally, there is a seventh cable, the DB25 ribbon cable, that plugs into the rear of the Angelia board. The big trick to learn in ANAN disassembly is handling those cables to get access to the boards and the trick to move the rear panel with the base plate when sliding the base plate forward .
Disassembly
You need to remove both the front and rear panels.
- Remove 6 back panel screws and 8 BNC connector nuts (14mm).
- Remove front panel 6 nos screws. Power switch is snap fitted to the steel button, release the plastic locks to free the switch body (I couldn't get this to work) or just wiggle the switch body while pulling.
- Disconnect 10-pin ribbon cable from top front of PA/Filter board after noting orientation of red stripe
- Remove two SMA connectors behind front panel on upper right after marking one of the plug/jacks for ID in reassembling. Be VERY careful with removal of the inboard of the pair - there's a delicate transformer immediately behind that's just secured by its leads. Don't use your fingers, gingerly use an 8mm open-end wrench.
- Remove ribbon cable from Angelia J15 on the bottom plate after sliding it forward, note orientation. In order to slide the bottom plate far enough forward, reflect the rear panel around toward the bottom so that it will slide forward along with the bottom plate.
- Slide bottom plate as far back as you can. On the rear, take an 8mm open=end wrench and remove the 3 SMA connectors on right side, labeled 2, 5, 4 left to right looking from rear. Remove 10MHz SMA on left side (going to rear panel)
- Cut cable ties around wire bundles
- Remove 2-wire black J9 connector (speaker cable) toward rear of Angelia (gray wire on right, white on left)
- Turn unit upside down, resting on top, and slide bottom plate forward exposing white molex power connector going to top PA board. Reach down with long nose pliers and lift the connector off (red wire toward rear)
- You can now slide bottom plate off the front and free.
- You can slide middle plate out the back and free
Troubleshooting setup with Angelia side-by-side with PA board. Power cable is extended via clip leads
- Prepare middle plate for replacement - If you removed the 10-pin ribbon cable, reattach with tie wraps to top side of middle plate (but leave disconnected for now). Slide middle plate back from front - short SMA cable in J13 of PA board goes up through round hole in middle plate; 3 other SMA cables plus white/gray speaker wire pass through slot on other side of middle plate - see photo
- slide Angelia bottom plate in from front with dc cable freed toward the rear; tilt case up on its side with bottom toward you and rear to left
- connect the power cable
- slide base plate back and connect DB25 ribbon cable and speaker cable to Angelia
- connect 4 SMA connectors to rear of Angelia
- reattach tie wraps to cable bundles if necessary
- slide base plate back and connect both ends of ribbon cables - pin 1 is toward front on PA board and toward the fan on Angelia
CAUTION: whenever you need to slide base plate back beyond middle plate, you need to disconnect the ribbon cable from Angelia or you will bend the pins and/or damage the cable
TIP: to slide base plate far enough forward to access Angelia ribbon cable connector, tilt case up on side with top toward you and front to your right and reflect the rear panel around the base plate
- Reconnect ribbon cable to Angelia J15 in front - pin 1 is toward front on PA board and toward the fan on Angelia
- Reconnect two SMA connectors in the front, making sure flats are orthogonal to front panel so power switch will fit between
- Refit power switch body into push button by pushing on.
- Screw in front and rear panels. I chose to add star lock washers under the front panel screw heads to enhance metal bonding of the front panel through the paint.